By: John Marshall
Posted: 13 February 2015
I have now produced seven picture frames so far with excellent mitres. I use a chop saw to initially cut the moulding oversize and then the mitre cutter to finish. Do ensure the cutter trims the whole face of the moulding.
By: Tony Maund
Posted: 29 September 2014
Extremely minor adjustments required to set up the device for the first time these were easily achieved.
The quality of the cut on hard or softwoods are perfect every time, easily comparable to high end professional machines. A must have tool for all woodshops
By: David Morgan
Posted: 22 July 2014
I am writing this review as the machine is very well made and works perfectly. The review that criticises it is inaccurate. When setting the machine to 45 degrees the sprung pin is pushed down so that the guide plate passes over it, then when cutting 45 degrees there is no movement and it is set at 45 degrees exactly. The previous reviewer states the pin moves under pressure....this is because he has not moved the guide plate over the sprung pin so it is pushing against the flat surface and not the angle edge which is designed so the plate passes over the pin! Stating it does not cut 45 degrees indicates he has not understood how to set the machine up properly. I have written this as that review nearly put me off buying......I am glad I decided to buy it as it works perfectly. The instructions could have been more detailed so that these difficulties would not have happened.
By: John Brookes
Posted: 3 March 2014
I have tried numerous ways to get around the problem I have with this mitre cutter, but to no avail. When set at 45 degrees, the sprung pin in the baseplate, which holds the vertical fence in position is a) not entirely accurate to 45 degrees and b) moves when pressure is applied on the wood to cut the mitre. I have tried to do up the holding down bolts on the vertical fence, but these are only about 3mm diameter and I know will snap if I try to force them tighter than finger tightness.
I have tried all ways to get around this problem, even to putting a steel 'G' clamp onto the upper baseplate face of the wood I am cutting, and although partially successful, I am left with bruises on the wood from these clamps ( I know, pack the clamps with sacrificial wood, you say, but the makes the whole exercise of quickly cutting mitres quickly, quite obtuse.
It is such a shame, as the kit is made quiet sturdily and the blades, of course, are extremely sharp, but a little more thought from a clued up Asian product engineer, might have made this an excellent product. Also, I seem to recall an older Axminster model (white) my friend had about ten years ago, worked much better - and it was a lot cheaper!
By: A Rawlins
Posted: 13 July 2013
I have had one of these mitres, with a spare set of blades, for about 10 years, so my wife tells me. My wife is an Artist and I make all her picture frames etc to cut down on the cost of buying them.
In all this time I have cut approximately 1000 mitre joints and have only sharpened both sets of blades twice, they are so good.
One suggestion I would offer to anyone who uses this mitre cutter is to make sure that the top and bottom slots that blade holders slide in are kept lubricated as they do wear being cast iron. When they do wear you will loose accuracy of cut on the joint. Compared to the price of the Morso this cutter does the job just as well.